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PeterS - Camino De Santiago Journal - 2016

Entry 33 of 35
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Peter Shaw
City: Rancho Palos Verdes
State: Ca
Country: US
Begins: Mar 27, 2016
Direction: Northbound

Daily Summary
Date: Wed, Apr 27th, 2016

Journal Stats
Entry Visits: 353
Journal Visits: 14,698
Guestbook Views: 179
Guestbook Entrys: 18

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Super-size Horreo for the Monastery

Day 31

It was really cold this morning when I left the albergue, the first out of bed as usual. I walked up to the cafe allied to the albergue and had a coffee for the road. Very soon I reached a roundabout where the Camino split with one going to Fisterra and the other to Muxia. I already had decided to go to Muxia first so I headed right. Then the trail went along a ridge lined with windmills and you guessed it, it was really windy. The temperature was 42 deg F but with the wind chill I think it was down in the 30's. I had gloves on but I was still really cold and kept going as fast as possible to stop getting any colder. I'm guessing those windmills were close to their maximum power output.

Just over an hour later I reached the town of Dumbria which had a new municipal albergue that was my third accommodation option from last night. I found a cafe and asked if they had bocadillos but they said no. Then I asked about breakfast and without seeing a menu or saying anything else the lady disappeared and a few minutes later came back with two slices of toast and this odd looking, but very tasty, marmalade. That would do fine for now I thought.

The trail was then a delightful track through fairly light forest of mostly eucalyptus trees. I made good progress to the village of Senande where I picked one of the two cafes. There I got my bocadillo filled with ham and cheese. I was a little put off after eating it when the guy who made it told me he was feeling under the weather - I'm just hoping he didn't give whatever ails him to me. Another delightful forest trail, this time for over 4 km, followed before arriving at the town of San Martino de Ozion. I stopped briefly for an ice cream; I'm not sure why because it was still cold but my sweet tooth seemed to rule my head for the moment.

About an hour or so later I came by a monastery that had one of these horreos that was enormous by comparison, probably about ten times bigger that the one I pictured yesterday. It looked in very good condition and I suspect might still be in use as the monastery was still in operation. After another forest trail, I came over a ridge and there in front of me was the Atlantic Ocean. I'd had very brief views from a long way away near Porto, but this was my first sighting close enough for a picture.

The trail went around the coastline for another 6 km and then I reached my goal for the day, the town of Muxia. It looked very pretty from a distance with a small harbor and the buildings lining the hillside. It wasn't very crowded and with the strong wind reminded me of an English seaside village in the middle of winter. I found an albergue quite easily and after retrieving my sweater, gloves and cold weather hat, I went sightseeing.

I headed out to the point where there is a church that was referred to as a sanctuary of A Nosa Senora da Barca and whose origin could be traced to a chapel on the same site in the twelfth century. The current church is Baroque and it's relatively new - 18th century. In front of it were these spectacular rock formations down to the sea that host in September one of the most popular pilgrimages in Galicia. Just up the hill was this odd vertical rock with a Z-shaped gap down its middle. There was a Camino shell symbol beside it and I believe this point is the Muxia termination of the Camino. The wind was blowing a gale and I had to pull up my rain jacket's hood to keep my hat from blowing away. Definitely, an English seaside town in winter, albeit fortunately dry.

After wandering around town where all the shops seem to be closed for most of the afternoon, I ended up in a cafe/bar where I compiled this journal entry. Then I went to explore the town and find the Fisterra route for tomorrow. That didn't really take very long and it was close to 6:00 pm so I started to look for a restaurant. I've had so many pelegrini menu dinners that I was looking for something different but everywhere I went that had an attractive menu was closed until 8:00 pm. That's another legacy of the time zone oddity I believe. Eventually I found a cafe that would serve dinner but it was the usual chicken and chips plus soup. Not sure if I'll get to see the football game tonight, but we'll see.

Entry 33 of 35
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Camino De Santiago - Part Deux

The Camino de Santiago is the name of any of the pilgrimage routes to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of the saint are buried. Many take up this route as a form of spiritual path or retreat, for their spiritual growth.


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