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Brian "Gadget" Lewis
Begins: Sep 14, 2017
Date: Wed, Oct 11th, 2017
Start: O Logroso
Daily Distance: 17.6
Trip Distance: 442.1
Entry Visits: 66
Journal Visits: 2,765
Guestbook Views: 106
Guestbook Entrys: 4
Complete to Muxia
Last night was perhaps the best night I've had in an Albergue, with only 5 of us spread out in the lower floor, and another group of at least mostly Germans upstairs that we didn't interact with. Everyone of our little group was very quiet, it wasn't too hot or cold, really just perfect. One guy we never did get to know, closest to me was an Italian fellow named Claudio, and closer to Milky was a young woman from the UK named Sarah. Claudio spoke only Italian, so we only had some limited conversation - - - where are you from in Italy, what's it like there, some basics like that; nice guy but hard to have a whole lot of conversation. Then we had quite a nice conversation with Sarah over dinner and overall just a great stay in O Logroso.
Then followed this morning, for me at least, three breakfasts. First was tea with a croissant in the restaurant part of our Albergue. Milky was enjoying his coffee and I had some food in my bag that I wanted to eat some of, so I went back down to the Albergue for a little more breakfast. Then a couple of hours into our walk we stopped, as is our custom, at a cafe for tea/coffee, and as there were no pastries on display I asked if they offered "pan tostado" (toasted bread). They did, and the older couple running the place were charming about it, bustling around bringing us out more little pieces of toasted bread as they came available, dishing up marmalade, and using as much English as they knew in order to be friendly. Very nice, and sort of a third breakfast.
The walk today was another good one, little highway, lots of more natural path going occasionally through pleasant small towns, each with a lot of old stone houses and lots of horreos (uniquely Galician old grain storage units).
There was more up and down than I had expected, as I knew we had to net downhill a fair amount to get down to sea level (Muxia is on the ocean). Milky said about 500 meters of climbing today, but it was all just nice anyway.
At one point we topped out from yet another climb and there was the ocean, and we were hearing breakers crashing against the shore as we dropped back down, on a somewhat cloudy but mostly sunny warm early afternoon.
The hostel we're in is on the edge of town, but for a hostel it's fantastic - - - inexpensive for a private room, includes our own bathroom, and a large window on the first floor (in the U.S. we would call this the second floor) that looks right out over the bay - - - beautiful.
One interesting thing about having our window facing the sea is that as I type this up, I can look out and see pilgrims coming into town, and there's been a surprising number given that we saw almost no one as we were hiking.
We're taking tomorrow off, nothing particular planned apart from visiting the town and church and walking along the beach, etc. Then the day after tomorrow we'll hike to Finisterre - - - the other coastal pilgrimage destination - - - and then take a bus back to Santiago from there the following day.
Gadget's Trail Journal
The Camino de Santiago is the name of any of the pilgrimage routes to the shrine of the apostle St. James the Great in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where tradition has it that the remains of the saint are buried. Many take up this route as a form of spiritual path or retreat, for their spiritual growth.
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