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Jo - Continental Divide Trail Journal - 2017

Entry 181 of 220
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State: California
Country: USA
Begins: Apr 22, 2017
Direction: Southbound

Daily Summary
Date: Sat, Jun 18th, 2016
Start: BC segment 25, mile ..01 to Cuba
End: Cuba
Daily Distance: 8
Trip Distance: 2,215.6

Journal Stats
Entry Visits: 412
Journal Visits: 90,718
Guestbook Views: 5,416
Guestbook Entrys: 17

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The Kiss

Trailhead at Los Pinos to Cuba

On the trail at 5:29 a.m., arrived in Cuba at 8:00 a.m.-ish. Kerry dreamed about his dad last night. He dreamed he was slumped over in a church pew, in a European-style stone church. There was a priest and an acolyte beside him. This made our journey into town all the more urgent as he was anxious to speak to his dad and see how he was.

The single-track ended at the trailhead, maybe 1/10th of a mile beyond our campsite and we were immediately dumped on to the road walk to Cuba. On the way, we passed many homesteads and barking dogs, and at one point a beautiful black (with white blazing) border collie/Australian shepherd mix came running up to us, whimpering and begging for attention--he rolled over on his back and we scratched his tummy. I felt so sorry for him, his right rear leg was lame, but he looked like he belonged to the house closest to us and we walked on.

As we descended, we started to look up at the mesas again, the bands of yellow sandstone atop red rock--always something to look at. The flowers too changed, today a tall yellow vetch-type that lined the roadside.

When we arrived in Cuba, almost no businesses were open, but toward the end of town we found El Prado where we ate our first good meal since leaving Cumbres Pass nine days ago. At 9 a.m. Portland time, Kerry reached his sister, Alysa, on his dad's phone and she put the phone to his ear so he could hear Kerry speak. Alysa said he smiled and then she began to cry. Kerry told her we would be in Cuba until tomorrow, and that he would call her later.

Waiting outside the Frontier Hotel for the proprietor to come, a couple bike riding the Mountain Bike Great Divide, stopped by, also looking for a motel--apparently, the place they stayed in last night, the Cuban Lodge, $ 55, had no hot water and they said it was easily the worse motel they had ever stayed in. There names were Apricot and Psycho from Oregon, they hiked the PCT a number of years ago. Squatch had convinced them to ride the Great Divide with him and then bailed on them, so they decided to go anyway.

Learning that no one is available to take guests at the Frontier Motel until 4 p.m., we called Circle A Ranch, the very same Circle A that Yogi and Jim Wolf praise in their guides. The first thing the guy told us, after Kerry told him there were two couples looking for a room was, "we'd be way too expensive for you". Excuse me, a big assumption there or what? I guess just because we're hiking/riding the trail we can't afford a decent place to stay?--four gainfully employed people? Apparently, it's a wedding weekend, so they don't need us. The conversation just went downhill from there, so Kerry politely thanked him and then hung up. So much for Circle A Ranch.

So, laundry done, we headed to Bruno's for some more serious eating and this did not disappoint. Evening now, we have decisions to make before we sleep.

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