Brookester - Pacific Crest Trail Journal - 2013

Week 19

Day 127: 25.5 miles
Up at 5:05, out at 6:10, camp at 6:40. I continue along the Suiattle River
and then start a long climb up to Suiattle Pass. It is a forested climb
along Miners Creek. Takes forever to get to the pass, mostly because I
can't see it and seems like I just keep winding around the mountain. At the
top there's great views of Sitting Bull Mtn and some jagged ridges. It's
nice. The rest of the day is mostly descent, first along the South Fork
Agnes creek, then along Agnes creek. I'm really tired today, mentally and
physically. But I push myself to within 5 miles of the Stehekin bus stop,
which comes by the trail at 9am tomorrow.

Day 128: 3.3 miles
Up at 5:15, out at 6:20, stop at 7:20. It rained last night and the brush
is soaked, and very quickly so am I. But the gorge I hike through is pretty
and the hiking is fast, and soon I am at the High Bridge ranger station.
My next resupply is in the town of Stehekin, a town accessible only by boat
or by foot. But there is a bus that runs from the trailhead to the town,
about 11.5 miles. I catch the 9am bus and ride to the bakery which is 2
miles from the town. Here I feast on pastries, the best cinnamon roll and
bluebery scone that I have ever tasted. I get some cookies to go as well.
When I've had my fill I walk to town and on the way I come across a small
farm, The Garden, and stop in. Fresh pears, tomatoes, goat cheese and
homemade crackers! So cool. In town I check into the hotel and do chores
until dinnertime. Afterwards I head up to the visitor center and listen to
a ranger talk about the geology of the area. It is raining when the talk is
over and I have the distinct pleasure of going inside to a nice dry room
with a nice comfortable bed.

Day 129: zero miles
Today I relax and enjoy the last town stop of the trail. Around town I see
Treeboo, Muirbird, Making Tracks, and Carpe Diem, and it is really
wonderful to see them all. After another bakery stop I head to the Stehekin
Ranch, where my lodging for tonight is a permanent tent with a kerosene
lamp for lighting. It's great! I hang out on the hammock and read Louis
L'amour books that I've found in the community room, and feel totally
relaxed. At dinner, Sasquatch and Walking Home show up and again it's good
to see all these hikers that have made my experience on the trail so much
richer, and to hang out with them one last time.

Day 130: 23.8 miles
Up at 6:15, it is raining and blowing. I have breakfast (cinnamon bread
French toast!) and then catch the 8:30 bus back to the trailhead. After two
hours the rain stops and the sun comes out, this happens twice more today.
Fickle weather up here. I follow the Stehekin river and then Bridge creek.
The first 19.5 miles are forested without many views. At Rainy Pass there
is a small beer cache, and I sit down and enjoy a PBR courtesy of Juice,
who has finished the trail and left a bit of trail magic. I'm really happy
for him and a little sad, it just hammers home the fact that we will all
poof away back to our seperate lives. After reflecting a bit I move on, up
to a beautiful campsite just below Cutthroat Pass. The trail here is
stunning, especially with the sun lighting up the clouds in dark and
mysterious ways, and a double rainbow crowning the nearby mountains.

Day 131: 26 miles
Up at 5:20, out at 6:40, camp at 5:10. It rained all night and is still
raining in the morning. I'm hiking in a beautiful area and try to pay
attention but mostly I just look at my feet and slog through the wetness.
At 2pm the clouds break but I'm suspicious, I can't trust the weather up
here! I camp at Harts Pass and Meander, a PCT hiker who finished 10 days
ago, is there with his brother doing awesome trail magic. They've got a
portable metal stove and a fire to cook steak and potatoes! There's 5 of us
hikers there to enjoy it. We have great conversation and I enjoy the hiker
company over a meal one last time and we do not go to bed until well past
hiker midnight.

Day 132: 26.4 miles
Up at 5:30, out at 6:50, camp at 6:00. It rained again last night. After a
quick breakfast and goodbyes, I head out. Only light sprinkles this morning
but it is cold. When the sky clears up at 10:30 it becomes a good day of
hiking with good trail and good views. I go over 9 passes today although
most are small. The stretch between Rock Pass and Woody Pass is the most
exciting, there were very recent rockslides in the area which create deep
troughs in the slope, some were 10-15 ft deep! It's a little tricky picking
my way down and out. Past the slides, I make my last big climb up to a pass
and get some nice views, and then head down for camp at castle pass. Last
camp of the PCT!

Day 133: 12.3 miles
Up at 5:30, out at 6:30, stop at 10:50. Condensation everywhere! It didn't
rain last night but might as well have for all the water. Soggy tent aside,
I also blow out the finicky zipper of my puffy jacket - damn you Mountain
Hardwear for using such a cheap zipper! Socks and pants are quickly soaked
from the vegetation, and for a last day on the trail it's not that great. I
hike quickly and in an hour I'm at the border! All irritation vanishes and
I feel strange, proud and sad and overwhelmed. I take some pics, sign the
register, and then hike on into Canada feeling a little numb. Hard to
process the magnitude of the moment and what I have just done. The trail in
the Canadian side is pretty bad but it doesn't matter anymore. I soon reach
the road and start walking toward Manning Park resort when my parents drive
up! They had hoped to hike in and meet me but I'm ahead of schedule as
usual. We head to the resort and toast to the end of a long adventure.
Tomorrow we will head into Vancouver for some sightseeing, and then life
will move onward as ever.

[PEANUT BUTTER PLATYPUS]
PCT '13 Thruhiker
April 21 - August 31, 2013

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